November marks an in-between time for beer-drinkers: Most of the autumn brews, like Oktoberfest marzens and pumpkin ales, are gone from the shelves, and the winter seasonals are just beginning to arrive. Fittingly, one of the first on the scene this year comes from one of the oldest craft beer-makers in the country: Samuel Adams Winter Lager.
Brewing special seasonal beers is an ancient tradition, with roots in the pagan celebrations of the solstice. As the autumn harvest was concluded, farmers used the remaining grains to brew heartier beers with higher caloric (and, often, alcohol) content than their normal output, to fortify themselves during the leaner, less bountiful months. Not surprising, these richer, more flavorful brews came to be called “winter warmers.” And, like a filling meal on a brisk late fall evening, these yearly offerings are meant to load the belly and thaw the body and mind. Also, because the array of spices traditionally included in the brewing process (such as cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and cloves) are the same ones used to prepare holiday victuals, these beers are well-suited to accommodate the intense flavors found at the dinner table.
Sam Adams’ entry in this market fits the tradition like a comfortable wool sweater. Ruby in color with moderate carbonation, this wintertime beverage even appears sturdier than the usual lager. But what’s most distinctive, from the first pour, is a rich, malty aroma, with hints of ginger, cinnamon, and orange peel. Caramel is the dominant flavor, but it’s
not overwhelming, and the mix of spices and sweetness is tempered by the mild hops bitterness and smooth finish. It’s delicious paired with some seasonally appropriate fare,such as a turkey sandwich with zesty mustard and fresh tomato slices, sweet potato fries, and ginger snaps (or leftover Halloween candy) for dessert.
If it seems a tad early to crack open a “holiday” beer, just remember what beer expert Michael Jackson once wrote: “Winter beers are as much a state of mind as a style.”
