Oktoberfest is one of my favorite holidays for beer-picking — second only to Christmas — for several reasons. First, there are always so many choices. Nearly every brewery, on both sides of the Big Pond, rolls out its own version. Second, Oktoberfests are great all-around, very drinkable beers that provide a nice transition from the lighter beers of summer to winter’s heartier brews. Best of all, they go with many different foods, from grilled bratwurst and burgers to pizza and fried chicken.
The style of beer commonly served during Oktoberfest (officially held in and around Munich, Germany, from mid September to early October) is called “Marzen,” named for March, the month in which it is traditionally brewed. Long before refrigeration, brewers in Germany would make one last vat of beer before the summer’s heat made beer-making impossible. They brewed this last-ditch batch in early spring and lagered, or stored, it underground in ice cellars or caves until September or early October, when brewing could resume. It’s this prolonged period in “za cooler” that creates its characteristic rich, caramel sweetness, signature coppery color, and subtle hop aroma.
This month, I chose two model Marzens, beers that adhere to the tradition while maintaining some subtle (and not so subtle) differences. Paulaner Oktoberfest-Märzen is a staunch traditionalist. Lighter in color than other Oktoberfests, its roasted malt aroma, creamy-soft, full body, and nutty sweetness make it a classic. It’s a very approachable, very versatile amber lager. The Samuel Adams Octoberfest, on the other hand, deliciously illustrates the possibilities to be had when you combine Old World charm and Yankee ingenuity. Typically dark orange in color, and giving off a robust malty aroma, this Marzen is slightly hoppier and has a spicy bite that cuts the standard sweetness. It’s an all-around beer that I wish would be available all year round.
If you can’t get to Oktoberfest in person, pouring a few mugfuls of Paulaner or Sam Adams should put you in a Bavarian state of mind. Ein prosit!
